ROMA EVERY DAY

foto con il telefono

2012-01-20T00:46:00.000+01:00

You've probably been wondering where I've disappeared to. Sorry. It's just that I've been playing around with my new camera phone and enjoying a fun app called Instagram that allows you to shoot medium format photos from your iPhone, add filters and effects, and then share them on the web in matter of seconds. Here are a few test shots. Which do you prefer, viewing-wise, the bigger or the medium size?

foto dell'anno 2011

2012-01-01T13:20:00.000+01:00

Buon Anno! Happy New Year!
I chose this photo as my 'Picture of the Year' because it captures the feeling and heat of Rome in my rather desolate neighborhood during summer. The air is still, while the child (my son) is in full motion.
This photo was also published on the online newspaper la Repubblica as part of a "Summer in the City" series.

Other contenders for best of the year were:
Specchio
Crepuscolo
Dolce far niente
Ponte Milvio
Signore che pranzano
Termini
Roma: epoche e stili

City Daily Photo has a theme day the first of every month. An impressive number of blogs participate in theme day. Click here to check out those that do.

cicerone_1

2011-12-26T19:08:00.002+01:00

My family is in town, visiting from the United States, and we are touring the city during the holidays. The weather is unusually warm and beautifully sunny, and it's wonderful for me to see my city through their eyes. Here is a first batch of photos taken during a fantastic tour of the Palatine Hill, Forum and Colosseum, organized by the always reliable Context Travel. I may be biased (I work for them as culinary docent, leading gourmet tours of the city) but the knowledge, breadth of information, passion and expertise shared by the scholars at Context is boundless. Our docent introduced and revealed aspects of the sites I was not familiar with. It was a truly spectacular experience visiting them with my loved ones.

luminara_2

2011-12-17T13:23:00.004+01:00

I'm a sucker for Christmas lights. For the 150th anniversary of Italy's unification, Rome put on quite a show with its Via del Corso mile-long flag. But the rest of the city is no less decked out.
Fendi always does the best Christmas decorations. This year the gold belt was added with sparkly melting icicles, and every 20 minutes or so, it snows! There are models in reindeer costume that take photos of kids with Santa and meake free buttons out of them. Posh Via Condotti is decorated with giant chandeliers, and for snowball fans, there's a huge one with a big tree inside it and blowing snow in the main entrance of the Galleria Alberto Sordi.
For more awesome images of Rom'e holiday look please head over at Moscerina's light show post.

vino

2011-12-13T01:37:00.001+01:00

More social lately, which is good. But the alcohol intake is concerning.
Last week I met friends for aperitivo at Vinaietto, and the next day I attended an offbeat wedding reception held in a warehouse of an ex-repair shop off Via Flaminia.
I need to detox and it's not even Christmas yet...

luminaria

2011-12-09T03:20:00.001+01:00

The new Christmas lights along Via del Corso were finally lit up today, I've been seeing workers hang the long strands all along the thoroughfare that stretches from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo for the past week.
On December 8th we celebrate the Immaculate Conception, and customarily take the following day off work if this happens near a weekend. We call this "il ponte," the bridge. This day also marks the beginning of the holiday season in Rome, and traditionally the time in which decorations go up.

fontana di trevi

2011-12-05T17:51:00.001+01:00

Trevi Fountain is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous in the world, also thanks to the famous nighttime scene of Fellini's Dolce Vita.

A traditional legend holds that if visitors throw a coin into the fountain, they are ensured a return to Rome. An estimated €3,000 are thrown into the fountain each day...

pizzarium

2011-12-03T01:12:00.001+01:00

Steps away fromt the Cipro metro stop, near the Vatican, there's a little shop called Pizzarium, owned by an influential bread baker named Gabriele Bonci. Pizzarium stocks flours, freshly baked bread, beers and other selected products. The pizza is displayed in large rectangular trays, sold by the slice, and nothing like you've ever tasted.

That's because Bonci employs a long fermentation process, natural yeasts, high quality flour and love. It's always a good idea to snack on the pizza al taglio on the premises (no seating, so you hve to elbow your way to the front of the counter), and then buy a loaf of bread to bring home.

These shown here are just a few of the pizzas available, which are made express daily. But according to the time of day, ingredients available, and whim of the baker, you may find completely different choices than what's pictured above.

photo 1:
plain tomato base, topped with fresh mozzarella di bufala and basil leaves;
pizza bianca topped with smoked salmon, mozzarella di bufala and grilled radicchio tardivo;
plain tomato base, seasoned with hot chili olive oil, and parsley.

photo 2:
pizza bianca, sliced open and stuffed with smoked caciocavallo and ham;
pizza bianca, sliced open and stuffed with prized mortadella.

photo 3:
pizza bianca, topped with cherry tomatoes, stewed porcini mushrooms and parsley;
plain tomato base, topped with sautéed broccoli raab, fresh mozzarella di bufala, and grilled anchovies;
pizza bianca (made with a different flour), sliced open and stuffed with smoked caciocavallo, speck and arugula;
in the background, an open-faced crostino covered with crumbled sausages and melted cheese.

I bet you're hungry all of a sudden.

Pizzarium is located at Via della Meloria 43 – Open Monday to Saturday – Tel. +39 06 3974 5416

la notte

2011-11-30T00:17:00.001+01:00

Piazza Venezia and Piazza del Gesù at night.
First image participates in this month's Theme Day in the CityDailyPhoto community.

isola tiberina

2011-11-09T01:07:00.000+01:00

The light was amazing on the Tiber Island the other day.
Visit the link for more thumbnails of Sunday Bridges and Watery Wednesdays

pigneto_2

2011-10-22T23:56:00.002+02:00

Some time ago I posted images of this wonderful part of town, Pigneto. I like the gritty ambiance, the ethnic diversity and the general urban feel. In this series, the tram line on the Via Prenestina main boulevard, runs underneath the tangenziale raised beltway.

tevere

2011-10-15T08:40:00.001+02:00

The Tiber river in autumn.
When many thoughts crowd my head, chores pile up, and the days seem too short for the million things I need to take care of, I walk by the river and put everything back into perspective.
See how small my shadow is on the bridge?

More Weekend Reflections HERE.
More Sunday Bridges HERE.

fori imperiali

2011-10-11T22:27:00.000+02:00

It's one long stretch of cobblestones (and a few potholes) betwen the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia.
Whe I shot this, it was a "Domenica senza traffico" meaning that on this particular Sunday several central roadways were blocked off for pedestrian access only. Beautiful!

giallo

2011-10-05T22:21:00.003+02:00

It's forbidden to ride a vespa on the autostrada highway. Yet this fearless centaur does, and even succeeding in passing us. We were on our way down to Positano, driving through an area known for cameo carvings, volcanic lava tunnels, and lax traffic law enforcement.

mistero...

2011-10-01T11:00:00.000+02:00

What is this mysterious object? Anyone who's been to Rome has seen it virtually everywhere...
Today is Theme Day in the City Daily Photo community, and the topic of this month is MYSTERIOUS OBJECTS. Please click on the link to see more mysterious objects from around the world!

roma: epoche e stili

2011-09-25T23:07:00.000+02:00

This image really encapsulates the essence of Rome. A wild juxtaposition of layers, eras, and styles.
In the foreground, the Renaissance classicism of Michelangelo's Campidoglio; behind it, the stark Romanesque/Gothic lines and ogives of the Basilica di Santa Maria in Ara Coeli; beyond that, the neoclassic 20th century Monument to Victor Emanuel, inaugurated in 1911, completed in the 30's and added with a panoramic elevator in 2007.

pigneto_1

2011-09-19T06:08:00.000+02:00

Pigneto is the "it" contemporary culture neighborhood. I like the relaxed vibe, the rainbow of cultures that populate its humble perpendicular alleys and wide tree-lined streets, the shabby-chic bars and edgy boutiques that sit adjacent to the old corner shops that still sell buttons and zippers to local housewives. To spend a lazy day at Necci, window shop at the Iossieliani flagship store, or just for the great restaurants and wine bars, I take numerous buses and cross the train tracks into the gritty pedestrian-only Via del Pigneto, and stroll in the footsteps of Anna Magnani and Franco Citti, in the original filming location of Pasolini's Accattone and Rossellini's Roma Città Aperta.

turisti

2011-09-12T18:03:00.002+02:00

Rome is still flooded with tourists. Despite the heat, school calendar, and worldwide economic crisis, people still travel to the Eternal City, and flock to the Colosseum.
I'm obsessed with the Flavian Amphitheater these days, I'm drawn to it and can't avoid shooting it from all angles. I promise to stop. Really.

biscotti

2011-09-03T14:29:00.000+02:00

My favorite biscotti... The ones I grew up with. I like to bake my own now, but I'm never out of these popular Italian brands. Whether dunked in a bowl of morning caffelatte, crumbled over gelato, dipped in bitter coffee as a spongy base for tiramisu, or simply to soothe a broken heart, these three friends have constituted reliable comfort over the years.
I love cookies, don't you?

via della conciliazione

2011-09-01T16:33:00.000+02:00

This month's Theme in the City Daily Photo community is PERSPECTIVE.
In this photo the light rays contribute to leading to the focal point at the end of the vast Via della Conciliazione.

basilica di san pietro

2011-08-30T14:46:00.000+02:00

arrivederci

2011-08-24T17:25:00.000+02:00

Our vacation in the breezy Tuscan getaway is over, alas.
We return to a sweltering Rome, with the memory of pink sunsets in our eyes, wet bathing suits, and enough stored energy to tackle the challenges of the Fall.

Arrivederci, Villa Rucellai...

botticelle

2011-08-21T16:12:00.001+02:00

Botticelle is Roman for 4-wheeled horse-drawn carriages, and the name derives from the 'botti' (wine barrels) that were transported with such means in ancient times.

Today these quintessential Rome icons are at the center of controversy. Tourists and photographers love them; while wallets and animal rights' activists don't.
Prices are not fixed. They can be influenced by number of passengers and their nationality, chosen itinerary, weather conditions and–mostly–the driver's mood. Starting price for an average 20 minute ride is never below €80, that is if you're Italian... If you're a foreigner, be prepared to weep.

A recent law regulates Eternal City hansoms must display a licence plate, forbids access to steeply inclined roads, enforcing rigid 8 hour-long shifts, in order to make life easier on the pulling quadrupeds. There's even talk of implementing a lightweight electric cab.

Botticelle will furthermore have limited entry in ZTL traffic controlled areas of the city (centro storico, Trastevere, Testaccio and Villa Borghese), and will be allowed only on a selected number of travel-charm areas, like Via Veneto, Piazza della Repubblica and Via dei Fori Imperiali. They will no longer be able to transit on hilly Via Barberini, Via Francesco Crispi, Via Quattro Fontane, Via della Dataria, Salita Del Grillo, Via Panisperna and Via San Sebastianello.

ferragosto

2011-08-15T00:04:00.001+02:00

This above was taken a week ago in the pool at the Villa Rucellai where we're enjoying our vacation. The photo has become old, a memory of the past... because my child has won his fear of swimming without water wings!

Now he is a little fish. And even big green "coccodrilli" don't scare him anymore.
He blissfully jumps off the edge into my arms, smiling, trusting and exhilarated.

Buon Ferragosto!

colosseo

2011-08-11T01:55:00.001+02:00

The Colosseum–whose formal monument name is Flavian Amphitheatre–is one of Rome's most visited and recognizable landmarks. From the recently restored third tier, now open to the public, visitors enjoy an extraordinary view over the inner space of the structure, and of the surrounding archeological site. The other vast space made available to visitors after the recent restoration is the underground level.The descent into the hypogeum takes us to the area beneath the arena floor where the wild beasts caught in the remotest corners of the Empire were kept, and where the gladiators about to face them prepared for the fight.

Are you planning on visiting the Colosseum? Here's some very useful information

For guided visits with knowledgable, interesting docents, I suggest Context Travel

musei vaticani

2011-08-07T00:15:00.001+02:00

Memories of South Africa

2011-07-25T23:30:00.001+02:00

Simba ~ Phinda Reserve

Mama cheetah and cubs ~ Phinda Reserve

Hluhluwe ~ KwaZulu-Natal

Nyala Lodge ~ KwaZulu-Natal

Cape Vidal ~ Indian Ocean ~ St. Lucia Estuary

Cape Point ~ Cape of Good Hope

Camps Bay ~ Cape Town

Boulder's Beach ~ Cape Town

Simon's Town

luglio

2011-07-19T01:19:00.003+02:00

The heat wave is relentless in the Eternal City. Well, actually no, it did give us ONE day of respite on Friday. Then it was back to +35°C (+95°F) with Borneo-style humidity.
Working in these conditions is not easy, especially if your daily occupation involves walking and showing people around in the hottest hours of the day... Still, I can't complain, because I do have the best job ever.

caldo

2011-07-10T22:38:00.002+02:00

It's asphalt-melting hot these days in the Eternal City. Today we even had a mini-earthquake to shake us from our heat-induced lethargy. More and more people are leaving for their summer vacation, so streets are emptying out, and traffic is thinning.
This pictured above is a typical Sunday afternoon situation in my neighborhood (which is usually quite active during the week): me racing my son to the gelato shop.
He always wins, must be the training wheels.

termini

2011-07-09T01:10:00.001+02:00

The Rome Termini central train station building––inaugurated in 1950––is characterized by the extremely long, modernist façade in travertine marble, and by the gravity-defying double curve of the concrete cantilever roof. The anodized aluminium friezes that decorate it are by Hungarian artist Amerigo Tot, and they represent the dynamics in sound and speed of a train.

seduti

2011-07-02T23:02:00.000+02:00

I missed posting for Theme Day yesterday, because I totally forgot it was July 1st. I however posted Green doors on my other blog a few days ago, totally unaware that 'green' was going to be the July theme. I must be some sort of psychic...

Today I spent the morning in the park, relaxing under the shade provided by umbrella pines and European sycamores. Here are some images of others doing the same.

navona

2011-06-25T01:23:00.000+02:00

guarda su

2011-06-17T10:27:00.000+02:00

When in Rome... don't forget to look up!
Visit or participate in SkyWatch Friday

via del governo vecchio

2011-06-12T15:08:00.000+02:00

This street is all about the people. But also home to vintage clothing shops, stylish boutiques, funky bookstores and great food.

gps + vespe

2011-06-07T23:38:00.002+02:00

Did I mention how much I love riding in taxis?
I don't indulge that often, but lately I've had to rush around town a lot. Waiting for the bus in the scorching Roman sun only adds to the frenzy and frustration, so in the last few days I've been treating myself to the luxe pleasure of il tassì, as we call it here. While I stretch my legs in the air conditioned back seat, I take pictures.
I'm on taxis so often recently, that the other day I even bumped into a colleague who–similarly to myself–has left the movie business, and is now making a living driving a cab!
Lucky him, he gets to ride one every day.

in costruzione

2011-06-02T00:28:00.000+02:00

The street where I live is undergoing a major pavement overhaul. The sidewalks fitted with new travertine marble, potholes filled, and the street grated, stripped, leveled and re-tarred. In this procedure, the old level was uncovered. I was surprised to see that under a thick blanket of gravel and asphalt, my street used to be paved in beautiful sanpietrini cobblestones. They have once again sadly been covered, though.

For more UNDER CONTRUCTION theme day thumbnails, please visit City Daily Photo Blog.

OLEANDRI

2011-05-31T22:31:00.000+02:00

BLOG

2011-05-31T08:36:00.000+02:00

Trying to fix major food blog emergency - Please bear with me!

Sto tentando di risolvere una immane emergenza sul mio altro blog - Vi prego, pazientate!

vicolo del curato

2011-05-24T00:46:00.000+02:00

signore che pranzano

2011-05-21T01:13:00.000+02:00

The family-run kosher pastry shop Bernasconi, on Via dei Giubbonari, has only one table outside. Actually one table, period. Indoors the place is very tiny, and besides the sales counter, cash register, and a fridge for milk bottles and water, there's only the bakery workshop in back.
These three ladies managed to occupy prime people-watching real estate.

pizza e mortazza

2011-05-18T22:04:00.000+02:00

I recently did a post on my Italian blog FORCHETTINE in which I listed my favorite pizza bianca shrines. A classic way to enjoy the topping-free, bread-like pizza is stuffed while still warm with gossamer slices of mortadella. In pure trastevere slang, this perfect Bologna pork delight is "mortazza." Pictured above is quintessential Roman snack, pizza con la mortazza–or, as I like to call it–lunch.

modellino

2011-05-16T01:16:00.001+02:00

Just playing around with Tilt Shift Maker (thank you Lori for introducing me to this fun effect). Here I used it to make Piazza di Siena look like a model. Images like these always remind me of the old Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends TV show, shot entirely in live action model animation at Shepperton Studios in England.
If you happen to stroll by Piazza di Siena in these days, you'll see nothing like this. The place is a noisy construction site in preparation for the annual show jumping horse competition to be held here at the end of May.

galileo

2011-05-13T23:09:00.001+02:00

I should've posted this a month ago.

April 14th of 400 years ago, under the Gianicolo stars, and in this exact spot, Galileo Galilei presented an authoritative Roman audience with a perspicillum. A telescope. This date marked a turning point in the history of astronomy. And it happened right here, in this garden from where these photos were taken!

I was fortunate to participate in this amazing commemorative evening of astronomy, poetry and art–partly because I am a huge Galileo fan. But mostly because the unique occasion was held in the American Academy, a place I love. Unfortunately the overcast sky prevented stargazing with the perfect replica of the Galileo telescope, nor with any of the other ultramodern instruments kindly provided for the event, but we were equally thrilled and entertained by the evening's many other activities.

The images of the installation above–"Galileo's Eyes"–were captured during the course of an incredibly touching projection on the exterior of the American Academy's Casa Rustica. Video projection by Enzo Aronica, N[ever]land.

bici

2011-05-09T22:04:00.000+02:00

acqua

2011-05-06T17:19:00.001+02:00

Water is a common good. In Italy it's a precious public resource. There will soon be a referendum here to vote against (or to ratify) the privatization process of public water. With this post I wish to remind all Italian citizens how important our acqua is, and encourage them to vote at the coming May 12-13 election.

positano

2011-04-27T16:43:00.001+02:00

A few more images and lingering memories of our lovely Easter vacation in one of the world's most romantic places.
You can see more of these images on Flickr

panorami tipici

2011-04-26T00:19:00.001+02:00

To be continued...

per jeff

2011-04-18T13:43:00.000+02:00

A little preview of what you'll be enjoying here in the days to come...

tram

2011-04-15T22:30:00.000+02:00

I like taking the 19 tram to work. I like it even more on my way back home, when it's often not too crowded.
After many years behind the steering wheel of my car, stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, it's very refreshing to commute to work on public transportation. Riding the tram also gives me a chance to be a good citizen, zero emissions!

dolce far niente

2011-04-12T20:26:00.000+02:00

Sweet idleness is a national sport these days. During the weekend folks go to one of the city's many public parks, bring a picnic or just lie on the grass, enjoying the warm sunshine and perfumy spring air.
We like to do the same.

ponte milvio

2011-04-10T09:44:00.001+02:00

The Milvian Bridge has collapsed and been rebuilt so many times in its long history, that Romans colloquially call it "Ponte Mollo," the supple bridge.
Click here for other Sunday Bridge thumbnails of participating photographers.

piazzale garibaldi

2011-04-07T22:17:00.001+02:00

Old Giuseppe Garibaldi on his horse has the best view of the city.

2011-04-04T19:43:00.004+02:00

nap
(verb) [intrans.] sleep lightly or briefly, especially during the day.
(noun) short daytime sleep.
Eg. catnap, rest, siesta, snooze, catch forty winks, get some shut-eye, catch some Zs.

The warm Roman spring weather––and blooming foliage––trigger lots of napping these days.

villa aurelia

2011-04-01T23:22:00.000+02:00

I was invited at a lecture and luncheon hosted at the American Academy Rome earlier this week, and as a bonus, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit the entire property, including Villa Aurelia, pictured above.
To view more images of EDGES for this month's Theme Day, please visit City Daily Photo

famiglia

2011-03-29T23:42:00.000+02:00

Last week I did a photoshoot with a Danish newlywed couple I met through Roma Every Day, and their two gorgeous daughters. We skipped on cobblestones, splashed in fountains and threw armfuls of leaves at each other in the park.
You can see more images we shot on Christina's Uni*C blog, along with their lovely seaside wedding pictures, also taken by friends and family.

3x1

2011-03-27T00:52:00.001+01:00

If you're a follower of the Sunday Bridge Series hosted by my friend and coffee maven «Louis» at San Francisco Bay Daily Photo, you'll have seen this week's post, a fantastic Alameda twofer. I'm raising his drawbridge and footpath, by bidding my Roman "three-fer:" Ponte Sisto (top) and Ponte Principe Amedeo Savoia Aosta (above), both seen from Ponte Mazzini.

Buona Domenica a tutti.

taxi

2011-03-24T16:27:00.001+01:00

I love taking taxis. If I could afford it, I'd take taxis to go everywhere. I have fantasies of selling my car and using only taxis to get around the city. I even worked out that it could cost me less to take taxis than it is to keep a car, mintenance costs, gas, insurance, etc.
But then I never do it. I keep taking the bus, and when I absolutely must, I use my car and regularly get parking tickets. Which never would have happened if I'd just taken a taxi.

unità

2011-03-21T23:25:00.000+01:00

Italy celebrated its 150th anniversary as a unified nation last week, and it was a holiday. Green, white and red flags and decorations fluttered everywhere, schools closed for the day, and many people took Friday off for "ponte."
Here is the relaxed line for a table at a typical Roman trattoria.

ombre

2011-03-18T22:54:00.000+01:00

Today the sun's been dancing in and out of the clouds, each time casting unexpected shadows on the ochre and terracotta wash of the Roman palazzi.
In spring these Plane trees (European sycamores) will be covered in beautiful foliage, and the dwellers of these riverside homes will no longer benefit from the direct rays of the sun.

specchio

2011-03-13T16:35:00.001+01:00

Lungotevere at dusk. The river was very still, and lights were just starting to flicker on.
For more Weekend Reflections photos from around the world, please visit Newton Area Photo

19

2011-03-08T22:56:00.000+01:00

On my way back home from work, I can either take the #19 tram or the #926 bus. In this case I was riding the latter and photographing the former. In this point the two separate, each going separate routes. Both take me fairly close to home.

vintage

2011-03-06T22:33:00.000+01:00

For more Sunday Bridge Series thumbnails, please visit San Francisco Bay Daily Photo.

campidoglio

2011-03-04T23:11:00.000+01:00

The Campidoglio area––Rome's Capitoline hill––is closed off to traffic. This also means no parking anywhere at all times. But according to the sign in the top image, only wedding vehicles are allowed on the weekend.
Rome city hall celebrates civil marriages in its richly upholstered Sala Rossa, a spacious room decorated with red tapestries and gold finish. So unless you're saying, "I do" on Saturday and Sunday, you can forget driving up the 100-step stone incline.

crepuscolo

2011-03-01T00:55:00.000+01:00

My favorite part of town at my favorite time of day: Ponte Sant'Angelo at sunset, with St. Peter's in the background.

Visit the City Daily Photo portal for other participants in the March Theme Day.

obelisco Flaminio

2011-02-25T16:02:00.000+01:00

You can read more about this Egyptian obelisk on Il Leone e L'Obelisco.

studenti alle belle arti

2011-02-23T23:54:00.000+01:00

How can you tell these are foreign exchange students?

Their happy smiles and carefree attitude. The sweet life.
(shorts, sleeve lengths and sockless boat shoes in February were a dead giveaway)

gulliver al parco

2011-02-21T00:31:00.000+01:00

se non ora quando

2011-02-13T21:05:00.000+01:00

ponte pietro nenni

2011-02-13T12:37:00.002+01:00

The subway runs across this bridge, on the only above-ground tract of the metro line A. Can you see the train?

Visit San Francisco Bay Daily Photo for more Sunday Bridge Series images

via s. francesco a ripa

2011-02-11T12:59:00.000+01:00

piazzale flaminio

2011-02-08T23:48:00.000+01:00

Looking both ways, from the same spot.
Two different days: one sunny, one not.

la spesa

2011-02-04T13:42:00.001+01:00

"Andiamo a fare la spesa," he declares, marching out the door – Let's go grocery shopping.
My son likes to carry the wheeled cart when we walk to our neighborhood produce market.
Then of course when it's full, I always drag it back home.

accademia americana

2011-01-30T18:49:00.000+01:00

The bar at the American Academy in Rome

porta del popolo

2011-01-25T23:18:00.000+01:00

formaggi

2011-01-21T22:31:00.000+01:00

A cheese vendor's stall in the Via Alessandria market. I listed all of Rome's many farmer's and neighborhood markets on my other blog Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino

in rosso

2011-01-18T13:06:00.002+01:00

On my recent trip overseas, we were lucky to be able to drive up from Los Angeles to the Central Coast through a wonderful rural landscape. Flying may be quicker, but driving allows you experience so much more. If you'd like to see other images of this journey, you can see this post, or visit my Flickr album.

This portrayed above is Blackwell Corner Market on Hwy 46, where we stopped to stretch our legs and get a coffee, about half way through. I was touched by the sign at the entrance, 'in the red' is an expression many of us are sadly and often confronted with recently.

For more Ruby Tuesday images, please visit Work of The Poet

sant'egidio a trastevere

2011-01-14T12:22:00.000+01:00

in giro a monti

2011-01-10T00:47:00.000+01:00

One of my favorite parts of town.
I like to lazily walk around here, without plans; stop in for a bite at a habitual osteria and take the long way back home.

strade della california

2011-01-07T00:53:00.000+01:00

More images from our Christmas vacation overseas, particularly ones captured on the road in California.

alba

2011-01-04T01:44:00.000+01:00

Our Christmas was puncuated by dawns. Many beautiful dawns in many different beautiful places... Dawn depratures and dawn arrivals, by land, sea and air.

la mejo der 2010

2011-01-01T20:11:00.000+01:00

Every first of the month is Theme Day in the CDP community. This month's theme is PHOTO OF THE YEAR 2010. Here is my pick.

Please visit the City Daily Photo portal for the best images of 2010 from around the world.

pattinaggio sul ghiaccio

2010-12-17T15:37:00.002+01:00

This year's Christmas ice skating rink at the Auditorium Parco della Musica no longer occupies the cavea, rather a much wider space in front of the ReD cafè.
This series was shot last weekend.
I'm happy I caught the smiles and happiness of these three kids, drenched and giddy, in thier rented skates and loose-fitting elastic clothing.

galleria nazionale d'arte moderna

2010-12-14T22:49:00.000+01:00

This photo was taken exactly 1 year ago.
The National modern art museum is a beautiful 19th century building nestled in the Valle Giulia, between the river Tiber and Villa Borghese. It contains works by Burri, Colla, Capogrossi, Fontana, Balla, De Chirico, Guttuso, Schifano; but also Picasso, Mondrian, Pollock, Calder, Moore.

On the north-facing wall is engraved my favorite Michelangelo quote,

"Questo sol m'arde, e questo m'innamora."

Michelangelo employs the word "sol" in a way that could be interpreted as 'sun' = sole; and 'only' = solo.
It is a complex phrase. And so romantic, in both it's meanings:

"This shining sun makes me go up in flames, and it makes me fall in love."

"This alone consumes me, and seduces me."

What is Michelangelo referring to?
Art? Beauty? A person's smile? Or is he really only talking about the sun?

muro torto

2010-12-07T14:26:00.000+01:00

The Muro Torto (meaning, "askew wall") is an ancient Roman supporting wall located behind the Pincian hill, that cuts through the Villa Borghese, running all the way from Via Veneto to the Piazza del Popolo.

Don't be fooled by this picture, weekday traffic here is always bumper-to-bumper. There are actual sayings to that effect, like for example, "Jammed like the Muro Torto at rush hour..." or, "Growing old on the Muro Torto," etc. I'm kidding, the maxims don't exist. But the traffic is indeed very real.

The wall–dating to the end of the Republican era (509 BC to 27 BC)–supports the sloping hillside that once housed many patrician mansions, like the ones belonging to the Anicii, the Acilii and Pinci families.

The wall was later included in the monumental Aurelian Wall complex; and in the late 1800s this is where suicide victims, thieves, vagabonds and prostitutes were buried.

For more interesting history and lore surrounding the Muro Torto, you can read this very well-written article (in Italian) by Domenico Augenti.

buccone

2010-12-03T15:35:00.000+01:00

Yep, that's me. In a situation I am most likely to be seen smiling: in front of a plate of local salumi & cheese, while holding a glass of wine.

It was a great bottle of Cesanese del Piglio, that Deborah and her son John shared with me over lunch at a wine merchant called Buccone. The store is located on Via Ripetta, to the right of the Piazza del Popolo twin churches. It's great to meet a friend made through blogging.

Image © Deborah S. M.

buon pastore

2010-12-01T15:58:00.000+01:00

Between Via di Bravetta and Via Silvestri, sits the monumental neo-Baroque Buon Pastore suburban complex. Built by Architect Armando Brasini between 1929 and 1943, the intricate system of buildings was initially a convent, then it became an orphanage, a hospital and later hosted a military hospice. Some say it was even a questionable asylum for little girls and a prostitute sanatorium. Today it's home to three important high schools. Whatever the destination, bars and strange vibes still remain...

The Buon Pastore has often lent its eery and majestic structure to cinema. Pierpaolo Pasolini, Dario Argento and many other filmmakers have used this place in their movies. Last week I shot here for the first time, but many of my colleagues had filmed here before. It was an astounding discovery to learn of this place, only a few miles from the more famous Roman landmarks.
Among other locations within the complex, we used the central courtyard for the concert scene in a TV movie that will air overseas at the beginning of 2011.

cavalieri di malta

2010-11-24T22:16:00.000+01:00

Rome seen from the Knights of Malta on the Aventine Hill. Countless monuments on the skyline...
How many can you spot?

belvedere

2010-11-20T14:14:00.000+01:00

domenica

2010-11-17T23:31:00.000+01:00

angeli

2010-11-11T23:43:00.000+01:00

Fickle weather these days in the Eternal City...

monte della farina

2010-11-07T17:47:00.000+01:00

The Antica Vineria di via Monte della Farina, at number 37 of the namesake street (Tel. +39 06 688 06989) is more like a small town wine shop than a trendy aperitivo spot, with old men sipping their vino at the counter, and spilled by a spigot in the wall; and loyal guests ambling in regularly come 6 p.m. every day for their glass of Frascati. The functioning '50s fridge, the relaxed ambience and partners Marco and Giancarlo pouring glasses for their aficionado clientele, make this true Roman hang-out a must see.

passeggiata

2010-11-01T20:59:00.000+01:00

vetrina

2010-10-30T01:19:00.001+02:00

The man up there opening his windows is very lucky: he lives across the street from a bread bakery...

For more visual reflections, please visit WEEKEND REFLECTIONS

prospettiva

2010-10-21T22:42:00.000+02:00

linear perspective ~
noun
       a type of perspective used by artists
       in which the relative size, shape, and
       position of objects are determined by
       drawn or imagined lines converging
       at a point on the horizon.

il colore rosa

2010-10-18T09:31:00.002+02:00

This blog participates in the joint Italian/expat blog comunity in support of the Nastro Rosa campaign for Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Please visit Mamma Felice for a complete list of participants.

2010-10-17T00:17:00.000+02:00

Mexican artist Rivelino is the author of the temporary sculpture installation I Nostri Silenzi that occupies Villa Borghese's magnolia-lined avenue near the Pincio terrace. With his ten mute bronze busts, the artist conceptually deals with the theme of silence as absence of verbal communication and hindrance of freedom of expression.

via dei coronari

2010-10-11T00:35:00.000+02:00

This beautiful medieval road–originally named Via Recta–was created as a through way to Ponte Sant'Angelo and then further on, to St. Peter's. Because the street was subsequently crowded with pilgrims headed to the Basilica, its 500 meter length was entirely dotted with stands and shops selling sacred souvenirs and rosary beads.
In Italian a rosary is called rosario or corona, 'crown of beads,' That's why the name of the street became Via dei Coronari. The fascinating medieval feel is still alive today, though the old souvenir shops have been replaced with very exclusive antique stores and boutiques.

ghetto

2010-10-08T12:29:00.000+02:00

The ancient Jewish quarter of Rome is commonly referred to as the "ghetto." Today it is one of the city's most charming and eclectic neighborhoods, known for its great restaurants serving traditional Roman cuisine and Jewish specialties, and home to a large Jewish community.
But in 1555 a Papal Bull ordered Jews–who had lived freely in Rome since antiquity–to be segregated in a walled sector with three gates that were locked at night, and subjected them to various restrictions on personal freedom, like limits to allowed professions and compulsory Catholic sermons on shabbat. Jews were disabled from owning any property even in the ghetto, yet had to pay a yearly tax for the "privilege" of living there.
In 1798 the Ghetto was legally abolished, and the Tree of Liberty was planted in Piazza delle Cinque Scole, but it was reinstated as soon as the Papacy regained control over the short-lived Napoleonic "Roman Republic." In 1848, during the brief Mazzini revolution, the ghetto was abolished once more, again temporarily. Finally in 1888 the city of Rome was able to tear down the ghetto's walls, and the area was fully reconstructed around the new Synagogue of Rome.

I usually have breakfast in Piazza Costaguti–the heart of the ghetto–before setting off on my culinary tours of the city. The early morning light is beautiful, and I enjoy observing the activity as shops begin to open, and kids scurry off to school.

salumeria roscioli

2010-10-04T10:10:00.000+02:00

Historic Roman gourmet institution, among the most famous deli/restaurants in Rome and one of Italy’s top 5 wine bars. Recently showcased in Anthony Bourdain's black and white Dolce Vita-style Rome episode of "No Reservations" Roscioli's shelves carry 450 different kinds of cheese, more than 100 different types of cured meat, a wine list of 2200 labels, 20 different homemade breads. And the goods are handled by a professional team of expert sommeliers and talented chefs. The Roscioli family–true to perfect Italian tradition–has been working together since 1969.

vandalismo?

2010-10-01T00:52:00.046+02:00

Today is Theme Day in the City Daily Photo community. Graffiti is this month's theme.
I have mixed feelings about graffiti. In some cases I find them beautiful and poetic, and sometimes the vandalism is pointless, and it irritates me.
Some of these grffiti expressions I gathered in the streets, doorways and walls of Rome, and the best one, I found at home.

Visit City Daily Photo for more October GRAFFITI theme day photos.